Leh - Ladakh - (1984)

In year 1984 we had gone to Shrinagar in Kashmir, for conference of  Indian Society of Cardiology.

The meeting was held on the edge of Dal lake at a convention centre, put up on a small patch of land projecting in the lake. 

Surrounding was beautiful.  At the end of meeting, plan was to go to Ladakh. Along with us were my daughter and her friend - both around 16 years age.

From Shrinagar we hired a local taxi to go to Leh. 

Sonmarg to Kargil

On the first day we drove up to Sonmarg, we stayed  at an accommodation  on top of Sonmarg. Early in the morning we could see our car parked across the road. But the driver was not to be seen. 

After Sonamarg, the road climbed sharply to the pass, and once you crossed it, you entered the much more barren landscape of Ladakh .

From Sonmarg to Kargil there is regular traffic of army and at intervals the road is closed for public transport for a few hours. As a result the traffic going to Kargil is blocked. Perhaps the driver was smart enough to come late as he must have known about this situation. When the road opened, we were in a long queue of vehicles going towards Kargil. 

Driving from Sonmarg to Kargil right in front of our car was a big truck filled with chickens. After seeing that, my daughter decided to become a vegetarian. I think once she settled in USA, this scene must have been forgotten.

Anyway the surroundin were enjoyable. When we reached Kargil he took us to a private house, which we didn’t approve. We left our belongings and went for dinner. We found out a nice hotel in neighbourhood, confirmed for two rooms. Went back to that property and just picked up our baggage and walked out.

Our stay in Kargil was short, for one night only. Next day after breakfast we took another Taxi as a driver from Kashmir is not allowed to go further .

Our drive can be described as - 

Srinagar → Sonamarg → Zoji La → Drass → Kargil → Leh/Ladakh

Drass

Drass is a scenic high-altitude town and hill station in the Kargil district of the union territory of Ladakh, India, located at an elevation of approximately 3,300 meters (10,800 feet) on National Highway 1.

Often celebrated as the "Gateway to Ladakh," Drass sits just after the formidable Zoji La Pass as travellers journey from Kashmir toward Kargil and Leh.

It is famously recognized as one of the coldest inhabited places in the world, with extreme winter temperatures plunging as low as -45°C to -60°C. 

On the way we saw a famous ancient Buddhist site and a huge rock-carved Maitreya.

Lamayuru Monastery

Next stop was at famous Lamayuru monastery , one of the oldest and largest Buddhist Monastery. Only much later did I learn that Lamayuru is one of the oldest and most important monasteries of Ladakh, and that the surrounding landscape is popularly called “Moonland.”

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Srinagar → Sonamarg → Zoji La → Kargil → Lamayuru → Leh

Once we reached Leh we stayed at a very nice hotel. There were more foreigners staying there. Around 3 PM we used to feel very cold.

During our stay in Leh we visited two monasteries - Thiksey and Hermis. 

Hemis Monastery

Hemis Monastery is a Himalayan Buddhist monastery (gompa) of the Drukpa Lineage, in Hemis on the bank of the Indus River, Ladakh.

All I remember about Hemis Monastery is that it is the largest and wealthiest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Ladakh,, renowned for its annual masked dance festival and ancient museum artefacts. 

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  Hemis Monastery

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  Inside Hemis Monastery

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  Dancing with Masks

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  Dancing with Masks

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  Thangkas

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  Thangkas

Founded 1630 by 1st Taktshang Repa; re-established 1672 by Kin...Hemis Monastery is located in Hemis village, approximately 45 km southeast of Leh, Ladakh, at an altitude of about 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) above sea level. 

The Museum: Houses a rich collection of thangkas (Tibetan paintings), sacred manuscripts, weapons, and antique ritual objects. 

Statues and Architecture: Features a 30-plus-foot copper statue of Padmasambhava adorned with gold and precious stones, alongside traditional Ladakhi architecture and detailed wall murals. 

Hemis Festival: Held annually in early June to honour Guru Padmasambhava, featuring vibrant Cham masked dances and traditional music. 

Thiksey Monastery

Among the monasteries we visited, Thiksey remains particularly vivid in my memory. There was a celebration taking place, with monks dancing in the courtyard. I did not know then the significance of these dances, I simply remember the unusual sight of the monastery high on the hill and the colourful ceremony.

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Thiksey is located a little high up on the hill. Thiksey Monastery is particularly memorable because it rises up a hill in a series of whitewashed buildings. It is about 19 km from Leh.