Going Solo in Japan 12 -Cranes in Kyushu

Japanese name for Cranes is Tsuru. In India they are called Kunjar in National language. In Japanese culture cranes are considered messengers of peace. It is a symbol of longevity and good fortune because it was thought to have a life span of a thousand years. Tsuru are also monogamous, therefore, often used for wedding decor.  An example of this is seen on formal wedding kimonos, and the uchikake, a decorative kimono that goes over the actual kimono, where beautiful images of tsuru are often embroidered.

It is seen carved into decorations on temples, but especially in the form of origami, paper folding. The belief holds that anyone who folds 1000 origami cranes will see his wish fulfilled. This reminded me that when we went to Maizuru Municipal hospital for the first time during farewell party given by students my husband was presented with chain of Tsuru made by students using Origami

This is another trip that was inspired by the Discovery Channel. The iconic Red-crowned Crane of Hokkaido is a part of Japan’s cultural heritage. As it is part of its natural history, it attracts visitors from far and wide to visit its breeding and wintering grounds in Kushiro in east Hokkaido. I have been there once but it being a Crane raising and preserving institute we had no permit to go in.

Watching Discovery channel on Television I heard about Cranes in Kyushu. And I was very surprised. Kyushu is the westernmost island of Japan. We had gone to to Kyushu several times. We used to go to Kumamoto, to teach at one of the hospital. After that same private hospital in Fukuoka and later to Fukuoka University hospital.

I started asking friends about this gathering of birds and nobody knew anything about it. On my persistence and carefully listening to TV I located the area. I was determined to go to see these cranes. And that started my exploration. I had known about the Red-crowned Crane of Hokkaido, but had never known about migratory cranes in Kyushu. My attempts to contact Matanosan at the local tourist office also failed.

Continuing to ask our local friends, after 2 visits to Fukuoka we could get information about the location of this place. Mind you, it is a world famous town where Mr. Matanosan a farmer developed a gathering of Cranes in and around his rice farm.

Finally one doctor friend had located where exactly we have to go and informed the local council about our visit.

So finally we went to a town called Izumi by train from Kumamoto.

On the western coast of Kyushu island, is a small village called Arasaki. This refers to about 1.5 sq km of land reclaimed from the sea by large seawalls at the mouth of the Takano River, near to the town of Izumi, half way between Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

Here Matano san, a 76 year old rice farmer and bird watcher saw flocks of cranes settling down in rice fields during their southern migration.He started feeding these cranes on his own initiative in 62/63 and over the years more and more cranes started settling in this area. This operation grew as other wintering locations became inhospitable to the cranes. It is now subsidized, I believe by the Wild Bird Society of Japan.

Later on I also found that there is a website that announces the arrival of cranes starting in October and publishes the increasing number. So whenever we were in Kyushu around October we made it a point to visit there.

We reached Izumi by a local train from Kumamoto where we were greeted by a school teacher, perhaps the only person in the area who could communicate with us in english. He first took us around Izumi town and showed us the local “Crane Museum”.

Language being a problem in these small places, a school teacher receiving us at Izumi railway station was a great help. He took us around the town and took us to the crane museum. There was a large replica of the crane in the city centre.

Booking for our one-night stay was confirmed at a hotel next to the station.

The next morning he took us to Arasaki where Mr. Matanosan’s farm is located.

which was at least 1 hour drive from the station. On that day there was one more bird watcher from Amsterdam with us. After wandering in the area he left by bus in the afternoon. We spent the day at his farmhouse and in the evening we went with Matano san in his Jeep when he goes to feed the cranes. Besides rice, he carried a camera that had a lens as long as an Elephant trunk. Not the camera but a tripod was used to support the lens.

Each winter, between 10,000 and 12,000 cranes of four species gather on the coastal reclaimed land of Arasaki village. As the winter approaches the number of cranes that have arrived is posted on the web site thereby making the information accessible to bird-watchers all over the world

The most common is the White Hooded Crane, about 9,000 or more birds arrive each year, representing more than 80% of the world population of this species.

Next is the supremely elegant White-naped Crane. Taller than the Hooded Cranes, the White-naped Crane appers in multiple shades of grey, along with white and black, represented in its plumage. Most crane species have red somewhere on the forehead or crown, but this delightful crane sports a handsome red-face - an adornment that makes this an unusual and striking species. These cranes are in large numbers, usually somewhere between 1,000 and 3,000 (depending on the month) - it creates a beautiful contrast within the vast flock. About half of the world population of this species spends the winter here.

Two others are the far less common crane species, named the Common Crane and the Sandhill Crane, one hailing from the west; and the other hailing from the northeast respectively. These are scarce in Kyushu, togather they usually amount to fewer than ten birds in the great flock. 

Even rarer visitors in the shape of the tiny, but attractively elegant Demoiselle Crane from the steppes of Asia, and the tall white Siberian Crane, only appear once every few years - they are the icing on the cake for any birdwatcher's visit.

The great success of this spectacle has led to environmental efforts by the local government, which has recognized the touristic impact. Pictures of the cranes can be found all over Izumi city. Increased awareness helps to protect the crane and its habitat. Area is mostly farmland reclaimed from the sea. No electric wires are allowed overhead to help any injury to cranes as they fly in the sky.

The farmer Matano-san who started feeding the cranes then became the crane warden, and he and his family run the Minshuku Tsurumitei (which means “Crane observing inn”). None of them speak any English.

We had one more chance to go to Izumi a couple of years later. This time we decided to stay at Matanosan’s inn. But alas, he was no more. It was shocking news for us.His daughter now took care of the inn and the farm. We were given vegetarian soup for the evening meal. Along with this we ate our dry snacks. But as the evening came on we realised that it will be difficult for us to stay there.

As the evening wore on we realised that we would not be able to spend the night there. The only heating available was a hearth in the center of the room. And one has to sleep on the floor with feet nearer to heat.

When we expressed our difficulty his daughter immediately rang up the same hotel near the train station and arranged for the taxi.The owner lady was very gracious

It is interesting to know that initially there was opposition to this artificial feeding for cranes. But I must mention that Matano san during his life went on to become president of International society of crane watchers.

The graceful dance of more than 10,000 cranes is worth watching

The spectacle that happens daily here, has to be seen to be believed. It yet remains a largely unknown attraction.

Visiting here is an amzing experience; one man’s interaction with these birds has created a global network of awareness and support .

Matanosan had become an observer of cranes the year before I was born, and he fed them every day of every winter for more than half a century. By 1997, their numbers at Arasaki exceeded 10,000, and now crane-watching visitors from Japan and around the world must number in the tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands. Without Matanosan's hard work to protect those birds, Arasaki and nearby Izumi would not be the world-famous wintering grounds of cranes that they are today. An era has passed, and he is sorely missed.

What I am now going to write about is the history of this annual winter gathering of cranes in Kyushu.

Originally, cranes passed the winter in marshes and paddies all over Japan, and were observed in many places throughout Satsuma (present-day Kagoshima) during the Edo period (1603-1868). Cranes were first observed in Izumi plain in 1694, when land was being drained near the coast.

The Edo Shogunate appealed for cranes to be protected nationwide which Satsuma followed and allowing the cranes to keep coming. However, after the Meiji Restoration (1869), cranes were once being hunted again and by around 1890 no cranes were coming to Izumi. In 1895 they started to come again with the establishment of the game act and the cranes became established as an attraction on the Izumi plain served by a horse-drawn cart running to see the cranes. 

The cranes come over with the north and northwest winds from mid October to mid November. Each year there are about 10,000 hooded cranes, 3,000 white-naped cranes and also small numbers of common cranes, demoiselle cranes, sandhill cranes and Siberian cranes. They pass the winter eating rice and other plants.

By 1963 the number of cranes coming was over one-thousand. The numbers increased sharply from 1976, when military exercises between the United States and Korea in one of the other wintering areas in Korea started. By 1992 numbers had reached over ten-thousand. Since 1987 the ‘Crane Marathon in Izumi’ has been held. On 1 November 1989 the Crane Observation Center was opened followed by the Crane Museum on 21 April. 

Izumi in Kyushu Island is a traditional wintering place for migrating Cranes from as far as Siberia. The artificial feeding by the 76-year-old rice farmer and birdwatcher Matano-san has boosted this. He started this feeding in 62/63. There was a lot of opposition to what he was doing. But being a bird watcher he continued this. And finally, he became so famous as to become president of the society

Arasaki refers to about 1.5 sq km of land reclaimed from the sea by large seawalls at the mouth of the Takano River, near the town of Izumi, halfway between Kumamoto and Kagoshima, on the west coast of Kyushu. It harbors the largest flock of wintering cranes in Asia.

In the middle of the western segment is a several-acre area dedicated entirely as a crane reserve. As I mentioned earlier Matanosan a farmer started to feed the cranes as his own initiative. This operation grew as other wintering locations became inhospitable to the cranes. It is now subsidized, I believe by the Wild Bird Society of Japan.

Each winter, between 10,000 and 12,000 cranes of four species gather on the coastal reclaimed land of Arasaki village. A variety of cranes arrive here for wintering.  As the winter approaches the number of cranes that have arrived is posted on the web site thereby making the information accessible to bird-watchers all over the world.

The most common is the White Hooded Crane, about 9,000 or more birds arrive each year, representing more than 80% of the world population of this species.

 Hooded Cranes.

Next is the supremely elegant White-naped Crane. White-naped Crane appers in multiple shades of grey, along with white and black, represented in its plumage. Most crane species have red somewhere on the forehead or crown, but this delightful crane sports a handsome red-face - an adornment that makes this an unusual and striking species.

These are usually somewhere between 1,000 and 3,000 (depending on the month) - it creates a beautiful contrast within the vast flock. About half of the world population of this species spends the winter here.

Two others are far less common crane species, named the Common Crane and the Sandhill Crane, one hailing from the west; and the other hailing from the northeast respectively. There are Even rarer visitors in the shape of the tiny, but attractively elegant Demoiselle Crane from the steppes of Asia, and the tall white Siberian Crane, only appear once every few years - they are the icing on the cake for any birdwatcher's visit.

The great success of this spectacle has led to environmental efforts by the local government, which has recognized the touristic impact. Pictures of the cranes can be found all over Izumi city. Increased awareness helps to protect the crane and its habitat. Area is mostly farmland reclaimed from the sea. No electric wires are allowed overhead to help any injury to cranes as they fly in the sky.

The cranes in Izumi are carefully protected. For example, the roosting grounds are set in marshy areas so they cannot be attacked by Japanese raccoons and Japanese mink. On the other hand, farmers in the area have now started to set up guard nets around their fields so the cranes cannot damage crops. 

CRANES IN IZUMI from 1962, the crane populations were further boosted by the artificial feeding by the rice farmer and birdwatcher Matano-san. With great success, measured both by the current number of cranes as well as by the increasing environmental efforts by the local government, which has recognized the touristic impact. They even buried the electric and telephone wires underground for the cranes, a very rare feat in Japan. Pictures of the cranes can be found all over Izumi city. Buses with tourists watch only from one or two spots, so the disturbance seems minimal. In a unique educational programme, volunteer high schools students get up in the wee winter hours and brave the cold coastal winds to count the birds. Not only cranes are to be seen in Izumi. The fields near Izumi also contain flooded pools that attract around 10,000 dabbling ducks. Just outside Izumi is a dam where you can search for Mandarin Duck, Japanese Wagtail and Crested Kingfisher.Izumi plays host to one of the greatest avian spectacles on earth, with thousands of White-naped and Hooded Cranes spending the winter here, occasionally joined by small numbers of Sandhill and Common Cranes. (InfoHub)

Izumi as a resting ground for cranes

Of the 15 species of crane in the world, eight of them migrate to Izumi for the winter. About 60 species of wild birds (about half of the species living in Japan) also winter in Izumi, making it Japan’s largest bird migratory ground. The reason is geography.More than 100 years ago the wetland the birds love was reclaimed from the sea. While it was off limits to people it became a haven for cranes who could stay undisturbed. Soon cranes and other wild birds were flocking to Izumi from Siberia and north-east China. In recent years, 10,000 cranes have been recorded annually. As Izumi is thought to be the only site in the world where this high number of cranes coexists near civilization, Izumi’s migratory lands are a designated special natural monument

The breeding sites for the hooded cranes flying to Izumi are the marshes from Lake Baikal to the mid and upper stream of the River Amur. Amur River is the river of East Asia. It is the longest river of the Russian Far East, and it ranks behind only the Yangtze and Huang Ho (Yellow River) among China’s longest rivers. Its headwaters rise in Russia (Siberia), Mongolia, and the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region of China in the mountains northwest and southeast of the point where their borders meet. The main river flows generally east and southeast, forming much of the border between China’s Heilongjiang province and southeastern Siberia. At the Russian city of Khabarovsk it turns northeastward and flows across Russian territory to the Tatar Strait. The Amur’s Chinese name, Heilong Jiang, means “Black Dragon River,” and its Mongol name, Kharamuren, means “Black River.”

By 1963 the number of cranes coming was over one-thousand. The numbers increased sharply from 1976, when military exercises between the United States and Korea in one of the other wintering areas in Korea started. By 1992 numbers had reached over ten-thousand. Since 1987 the ‘Crane Marathon in Izumi’ has been held. On 1 November 1989 the Crane Observation Center was opened followed by the Crane Museum on 21 April. 

White Hooded Cranes are seen in the region numbering 9,000 birds or more each year, representing more than 80% of the world population of this species.

Next is the supremely elegant White-naped Crane. Taller than the Hooded Cranes, the White-naped Crane has multiple shades of grey, along with white and black, represented in its plumage. Most crane species have red somewhere on the forehead or crown, but this delightful crane sports a handsome red face – an adornment that makes this an unusual and striking species. These are usually somewhere between 1,000 and 3,000 (depending on the month) – it creates a beautiful contrast within the vast flock. About half of the world population of this species spends the winter here.

Two other, far less commonly seen cranes are named Common Crane and the Sandhill Crane. With one hailing from the west, and one from the northeast, these are scarce in Kyushu, together they usually amount to fewer than ten birds in the great flock.

Even rarer visitors in the shape of the tiny, but attractively elegant Demoiselle Crane from the steppes of Asia, and the tall white Siberian Crane, only appear once every few years – they are the icing on the cake for any birdwatcher’s visit.

The great success of this spectacle has led to environmental efforts by the local government, which has recognized the touristic impact. Pictures of the cranes can be found all over Izumi city.

The spectacle that happens daily here, in Izumi-shi, has to be seen to be believed. It yet remains a largely unsung attraction. The graceful dance of more than 10,000 cranes is worth watching.

Cranes in India.

After my trip to Izumi I became aware of cranes in India. I even had a publication of World crane society with Matanosan’s photos in my house. Unfortunaely I just could not find it.

Khichan, a village in Rajasthan, India, is renowned for its remarkable relationship with demoiselle cranes. Each year, from August to March, thousands of these migratory birds journey from their breeding grounds in Central Asia to Khichan, transforming the village into a vibrant sanctuary. This unique tradition began in the 1970s when local residents started feeding a small number of cranes. Over the years, this practice has grown, and now the village hosts over 30,000 cranes annually. The community's dedication to feeding and protecting these birds has made Khichan a notable destination for bird watchers and nature enthusiasts.

A little about Saras

Looking back at my earlier outings with my father I rememberd having seen beautiful birds looking just like Japanese cranes at a school on the outskirts of Ahmedabad. These are called “ Saras cranes ”. 

In Southeast Asia, Saras Cranes nest in small wetlands in the forests of northern Cambodia and migrate to the Mekong River basin in Vietnam for the winter. I have also seen Sarus cranes in east africa safaris on my recent visit there. These cranes are non migratory and remain within the area.

The main difference between a saras crane and a demoiselle crane is their size, with the saras crane being significantly larger, considered the tallest flying bird in the world, while the demoiselle crane is one of the smallest crane species; the saras crane also has a distinctive red head and neck, whereas the demoiselle crane has a mostly grey plumage with a black neck stripe. 

Khichan, a village in Rajasthan, India, is renowned for its

remarkable relationship with demoiselle cranes. Each year, from August to March, thousands of these migratory birds journey from their breeding grounds in Central Asia to Khichan, transforming the village into a vibrant sanctuary. This unique tradition began in the 1970s when local residents started feeding a small number of cranes. Over the years, this practice has grown, and now the village hosts over 30,000 cranes annually. The community's dedication to feeding and protecting these birds has made Khichan a notable destination for bird watchers and nature enthusiasts.

“ Demoiselle Cranes ”

Demoiselle Cranes, the smallest of crane species, are also seen in India.

Demoiselle cranes breed in Central Eurasia, from the Black Sea to North East China and Mongolia. It winters in the Indian subcontinent and sub-Saharan Africa. There are isolated populations in Turkey and North Africa in the Atlas Mountains. This species frequents open shrubby plains, steppes, savannahs and various grasslands, often near water: streams, lakes or wetlands. It can be found in semi-desert and deserts if water is available. During winter it uses cultivated parts of India and roosts in wetlands nearby. For African wintering grounds, it chooses thorny savannah with acacias, close wetlands and grasslands. 

They migrate over the Himalayas, crossing the mountain range at an altitude of up to 26,000 feet to reach their wintering areas in India.

Story of Demoiselle cranes in India is very similar to Matanosan’s story. I was first told about the presence of these cranes in Rajasthan by our friends in Abu who hail from Rajasthan. These are seen in large numbers at a village called Khitchen near Jodhpur. The locals there feed birds during winter along with migrating cranes from coming from across the Himalayas.

Their breeding grounds are in Central Asia and the bulk of the population flies south to north western India congregating in vast flocks of 1000 - 3000 birds in the desert edged arid lands of Rajasthan and Gujarat with smaller groups spread across northern and central India.

When it comes to bird conservation against all odds, few can match the spirit and generosity of the residents of the small hamlet of Khichan which is 140 km west of the "Blue City" of Jodhpur renowned the world over for its palaces, forts, temples and local bazaars.

Migratory Demoiselle Cranes, so called because of their delicate and maiden-like appearance, flock to this sleepy village, tucked away in a corner of the Thar Desert, in huge numbers in the winter months making for an amazing spectacle. In the evenings as the cranes fly back to their resting grounds, the sky can darken and the air reverberates with their trumpeting call and the rush of air through curved wings as the glide in to land.