Kenya - Tanzania

My journeys to Kenya have been at different times in my life, each carrying its own meaning.

Kenya is a country in East Africa with coastline on the Indian Ocean. It encompasses savannah, lake lands, the dramatic Great Rift Valley and mountain highlands. It's also home to wildlife like lions, elephants and rhinos. From Nairobi, the capital, safaris visit the Maasai Mara Reserve, known for its annual wildebeest migrations, and Amboseli National Park, offering views of Tanzania's 5,895m Mt. Kilimanjaro.

We first time went when my daughter was eight years old. That was our introduction to the African wilderness—new, exciting, and full of discovery.

We were staying at the house of our doctor friend for 2 days who was a family friend. They had a younger son to play with her and keep her occupied. Besides we had two friends from Medical college. On this trip one of our friend from college days had arranged for us to go to “ Tree Tops “

We went there during Christmas season, and all hotels were decorated with festivity. Many years later, I returned with my sister, at a very different moment in my life. My husband had passed away a few months before the Covid epidemic, and that journey carried a quieter, more reflective feeling.

In between, when my daughter was sixteen, we travelled to Zimbabwe. On that trip, we stopped in Nairobi and went on to the coastal towns of Mombasa and Milindi. Each visit to Kenya has remained with me in a different way—but it is the safari with my young daughter that stays closest to my heart.”

My last visit to Kenya with my sister we had good time togather.

We were staying at our Doctor friend's house.

At the start of our journey we visited Treetops hotel.

Treetops hotel

Our visit to Treetops hotel was organised by our college friend. In those days lots of Indians who families had migrated to Kenya sent there  children to India for higher eduction. His sister lived in a town close to Treetops. He had already organised our stay for one night at Treetops. So next morning he took us to the office in the town.

Queen Elizabeth stayed at Treetops Lodge, a hotel in Aberdare National Park in Kenya, when she learned of her father's death and acceded to the throne in 1952. Treetops is a historic safari lodge that overlooks a watering hole and provides a unique experience for guests to see wildlife.  

First opened in November 1932 by Eric Sherbrooke Walker, it was built into the tops of the trees of Aberdare National Park as a treehouse, offering the guests a close view of the local wildlife. The idea was to provide a machan (hunting platform on a tree during shikar in India) experience in relative safety and comfort. From the original modest two-room tree house built into the top of a tree, it grew into a 35-room hotel. The original structure was replaced by a larger structure, also in the tree, but additionally supported on legs; this was burnt down by the Kenya Land and Freedom Army (KLFA) during the 1954 Mau Mau Uprising. 

The hotel was rebuilt near the same waterhole and became fashionable for wealthy clientele. It includes observation lounges and ground-level photographic hides from which guests can observe the local wildlife at the nearby waterholes. 

The original idea of Major Eric Sherbrooke Walker, who owned land in the Aberdare Range, was to build a treehouse for his wife Lady Bettie. The idea grew, and in 1932 the couple oversaw the construction of a two-room treehouse in a huge 300-year-old fig tree well away from Nyeri itself. This was intended as an adjunct facility to the Outspan Hotel in Nyeri, which they had also built and owned. Initial construction was hampered by the presence of wild animals, as the treehouse was purposely built beside animal trails leading to a nearby waterhole. Labourers and supervisors were often chased away by wild animals, which led to increased labour costs.

This first structure was open only on Wednesday nights as a night-viewing platform for guests staying at the Outspan Hotel; although beds were provided, these were intended for resting or dozing, rather than sleeping. Rising demand prompted the Walkers to expand to accommodate more visitors. 

Royal visit

The visit of Princess Elizabeth and her husband Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh in 1952 included a visit to Treetops as personal guests of the Walkers. The Treetops was reinforced, and its capacity increased to four rooms, including one for a resident hunter. Chief Justice of Kenya, had escorted the princess and her husband, Prince Philip, to a state dinner at Treetops. After word of George VI's death reached the new Queen the following day – when she had already left Treetops and was by this time at Sagana Lodge – she returned immediately to Britain. She was the first British monarch since King George I to be outside the country at the moment of succession. The renowned hunter Jim Corbett, who was invited by the princess to accompany them during their stay there, wrote in the visitors' book. For the first time in the history of the world, a young girl climbed into a tree one day as a Princess and after having what she described as her most thrilling experience she climbed down from the tree next day a Queen – God bless her. Corbett, the resident "hunter" at Treetops, also wrote about the visit in his final book Tree Tops, which was published by the Oxford University Press in October 1955, six months after Corbett's death (19 April 1955). Archival footage of the royal visit has also survived. Queen Elizabeth II made a return visit in 1983.

The visit cemented the fame of the Treetops. The princess' stay, which coincided with the death of her father King George VI on the night of 5–6 February 1952, and consequently her succession to the throne, involved the Treetops in the worldwide publicity surrounding these events.

Lake Nakuru

We also went to Lake Nakuru for a day trip. Lake Nakuru is famous for birds, especially flamingos. Years ago, the lake used to look pink from a distance because of thousands and thousands of flamingos standing in the shallow water. Not always now, water levels changed over the years — but still a beautiful place. Unlike Maasai Mara, Nakuru is more of a lake ecosystem with acacia trees and open grassland — very peaceful for a day trip.

When we first saw Flamingo from a distance, it almost didn't look real — just a soft pink band along the edge of Lake Nakuru, like someone has painted a line across the water. And then as we got closer, that “line” slowly became thousands of living birds… moving, feeding, shifting together. It was a site to be seen.

There’s something very special about that sight. The stillness of the lake, the pale pink merging with blue and grey, and that quiet, rhythmic movement of so many birds together. It’s not dramatic like a lion hunt, but it has a kind of peaceful grandeur, almost meditative. And interestingly, they gather there because of tiny algae in the water, something so small creating something so vast and beautiful. Nature has its own way of reminding us how everything is connected. The fact that we saw a long stretch means we saw Nakuru in one of its best moods. Not everyone gets that view anymore.

Our stay at Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club

This club is very famous. It was very famous in 1960s–1980s safari circuit. It is associated with a Hollywood actor named William Holden. It has Long, low buildings, Large beautiful gardens, view of Mount Kenya. Many safari travellers stayed there before or after going to the parks.

William Holden loved Kenya and wildlife and helped establish this safari club.

A little interesting story

In the 1950s, Hollywood Actor, William Holden visited Kenya and fell in love with the country, the wildlife, and the landscape near Mount Kenya. He and his partners developed the Mount Kenya Safari Club, which became one of the most famous safari hotels in Africa.

William Holden later helped start the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy near the club, to protect animals like bongo antelope and other wildlife. So this was not just a hotel — it was also connected to wildlife conservation.

Later during our safari, we stayed at the Mount Kenya Safari Club, It had long buildings set in large gardens, with the great Mount Kenya in the distance. At that time, I did not realise the history of the place, but the atmosphere of the club has stayed in my memory ever since.”

Our Safari

A safari was already booked for us along with one couple from England and a Scandinavian gentleman. So we were five of us.

Our schedule was

1. Amboseli  

2. Famous Masai Mara 

3. Sarangeti

4. Ngorongoro

5. Arusha

Our Jeep safari began in Amboseli, though my memories of it are softer, like a landscape seen through light mist. I remember the vast openness, and somewhere in the distance, the presence of Mount Kilimanjaro—though it did not fully reveal itself to us. What stays with me most is a quietness, and the sight of elephants moving slowly, as if they belonged completely to that land…”

We were sharing this journey with 3 other guests. Besides 3 of us there was an English couple and a tall Scandinavian gentleman. It was close to Christmas.

On the way the Jeep gave trouble. So the driver went all the way back to get things needed for repair.

For a while, we simply sat there—five people who had only just met, now bound together by circumstance. The road was quiet, the surroundings vast, and time seemed to slow down. After some time, the English gentleman turned to us and said, ‘If you all agree, I will try to start the vehicle. We cannot sit here indefinitely.’ There was a calm confidence in his voice, and we all nodded.

To our relief, the engine responded to his efforts, and the jeep came back to life. With cautious optimism, we continued slowly until we reached a small village. We stopped here and found a modest roadside restaurant where we waited for our driver to return. It was a simple place, but after the uncertainty on the road, it felt unexpectedly comforting.

The five of us sat together, no longer quite strangers. There was conversation now—easy, unhurried—perhaps helped by the shared experience of having been stranded together in the middle of nowhere. Outside, life in the village went on as usual, while for us, the journey had already begun to feel like an adventure, even before we had seen a single wild animal.

When our driver returned and we resumed our journey, we were already running late. The park had fixed entry timings, so there was urgency as we drove on.

When we finally reached Masai Mara National Reserve, our driver explained the reason for the delay, and we were allowed to enter. By then, it was evening. We were taken straight to the lodge, where the dining room was full—completely packed with guests. Without any formality, we were immediately asked to join for dinner. It was a lively scene. Dining room was full of people, plates being served. After dinner, tired from the long and eventful day, we were shown to our rooms. The real safari would begin the next morning.

We woke up early the next morning and were ready in time for breakfast. It was still dark out side. There was no sign of animals.We could hear birds as we sat for breakfast. There was a quiet excitement in the air—the feeling that the real safari was about to begin. The structure of this lodge was quite different from the one I had visited later with my sister. It had its own character, its own way of blending into the surroundings. Everything felt closer to nature—less formal, more open—as if the wilderness was just outside, waiting for us.

Each visit to Kenya has remained with me in a different way—but it is the safari with my young daughter that stays closest to my heart.

“With time, many details of that first safari have faded. I do not remember how many animals we saw, or even all the places we visited. Even the name of the river escapes me now.

But the feeling of that journey remains—the excitement of being there with my young daughter, seeing a world so different from our own.

Serengeti 

After Amboseli we went to Masai Mara and stayed for two night - one inside the park and the other close Mara river.

I had vague memory of these outings.

From here we crossed over across the river to Serengeti National Park.

What has remained most vivid in my memory is our lodge in the Serengeti National Park. It was unlike any place I had stayed before.

Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge 

Built around and into large natural rock outcrops (called kopjes). The rooms and pathways winding between massive boulders, architecture that blends into the landscape rather than standing apart. It was developed as part of the early East African safari lodge movement (1970s–1980s). Designed under the Serena Hotels group. The focus was on vernacular, landscape-sensitive design, rather than individual architectural fame.

It was designed as a concept, not as a “signature architect building”. The idea was to respect the natural kopjes, to make the lodge look almost hidden within the rocks, to give guests the feeling of living inside the landscape. We certainly had to walk between rocks. Don't remember any windows. When you come out one certainly realises the vastness of Serengati.

Seronera Wildlife Lodge

This lodge is famous because:

• Built among huge granite boulders (called kopjes)

• Rooms connected by walkways between rocks

• Dining area also between rocks

• Very famous architectural design from early safari days

• Blends into the landscape

Many people who went to Serengeti in 1970s–80s stayed there.

Ngorongoro

Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoro is not just a park — it is actually a collapsed volcano. Long ago there was a huge volcanic mountain (probably as big as Kilimanjaro), and when it collapsed, it formed this enormous crater.

Its a huge volcanic crater, about 20 km across and the walls are about 600 meters high. We drove from forest on top down into open grassland. Inside there is a lake. Many animals live inside permanently. One of the few places you could see lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino in one day. Many people say Ngorongoro feels like a natural zoo, but without cages.

Lake Manyara

Lake Manyara

Lake Manyara is a relatively small park compared to Serengeti or Ngorongoro, but it is very unique because of its landscape and certain animals. Many people are surprised by how different it feels from other African parks.

The lions here are known to climb and rest on tree branches, which is unusual for lions. This is the most famous thing about Lake Manyara. One may see lions lying on acacia tree branches during the day. Only a few places in Africa have this behavior i.e, Lake Manyara and Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda.

The lake itself is a soda lake. So when conditions are right, thousands of flamingos gather there. The lake can look pink from a distance. Also many Pelicans, Storks, Herons and Water birds come there. So it is very good for bird watching.

What makes Lake Manyara even more special is, In a short drive you see groundwater forest (very green, like jungle), open grassland, swamps, acacia woodland, the lake, rift valley escarpment wall. So in one park you see many ecosystems together.Lake Manyara is also known for large elephant herds and they often come quite close to vehicles in the forest area. There is a hippo pool where you can see many hippos together in water.

Next day we had a short stay in a Hotel in Arusha.

Our sightseeing ended here. Next morning we reached Kenya .

On this visit our friend planned to  take us from Nairobi to Mombasa by train. 

We travelled on a high speed train called “ Safari Train “ that has large windows and perfect for seeing wildlife Tsavo safari park. This was a wonderful idea as this travels through the Tsavo  through the heart of Tsavo East and West National park. If one is lucky you see herds of elephants, zebras, giraffes. On both side you will see buffalos and gazelles roaming. The surrounding changes to tropical trees until you reach coastal belt.

On reaching the coast, air becomes humid and you see coastal city with coconut trees. We stayed at a modest hotel along coast going Northward.

The hotels on coast going South are beautiful and modern.

MALINDI

Malindi Marine National Park is located in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Kenya. It is claimed to be oldest marine park in Africa. The park lies at Malindi, about 118 km north of Mombasa and is protected and administered by the Kenya Wildlife Service. Along with Watamu Marine National Park, Malindi Marine Park is enclosed by the Malindi Marine National Reserve.

Journey to Malindi takes about 3 hours. We first visited our friend from Medical college who is settled here .

The beach has fine sand. After lunch at his home we went for a ride on Glass Bottom boat. From the boat we saw beautiful coloured fishes that reminded me of Bangaram in Lakshadweep.

My Second Visit

Years later, when I returned to Kenya with my sister, I experienced it again in a different way—more aware, more reflective. And I was grateful for that second journey, as if it allowed me to reconnect with memories that had quietly slipped away.

On arrival we first went to stay at a Club house on the shore of the may be Lake Nakuru. It was so surprising that Flamingos from Nakuru were gone - do not know the reason. So our driver took to a neighbouring lake to see Flamingos. For that we had to drive across the lake and from  there the Flamingo were seen. The number was very small. A hawker was standing  there and selling from feathers of Flamingos for sale. From the very small feathers he made dangling earrings. We have a friend who likes to use such jewellery so we bought it for her. We also drove to a large park.

After that on reaching Masai Mara lodge in the evening we went for a drive around the park. The sighting of animals was wonderful. A lioness sleeping over a long stone was looking beautiful. We also saw tall Giraffes in pairs and Zebras all over.

Some of the birds we noticed are

Common Ostrich

This is the tallest bird in the world — very big, long neck, cannot fly. In East Africa, the subspecies is called the Maasai Ostrich.Males are black and white, females are brown/grey.

Grey Crowned Crane

The Grey Crowned Crane (Balearica regulorum) is a striking African bird distinguished by its golden crown of stiff feathers. Native to the wetlands and grasslands of eastern and southern Africa, it is one of only two crane species capable of perching in trees. Its elegance and cultural significance have made it both iconic and endangered. 

Appearance and behavior

Grey Crowned Cranes have grey bodies, white wings tipped with gold and brown, and a red inflatable throat pouch called a gular sac. Their white cheeks contrast with black caps and the distinctive golden crest. These cranes perform elaborate courtship dances involving synchronised leaps, bows, and wing-flapping, often outside the breeding season. Both sexes share incubation and chick-rearing duties.

Habitat and diet

They inhabit wetlands, marshes, and adjacent grasslands across Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, and South Africa. Omnivorous by nature, they feed on grass seeds, grains, insects, amphibians, small reptiles, and cultivated crops such as millet and maize. Their long hind toe enables roosting in trees—an uncommon trait among cranes.

Breeding and social structure

Grey Crowned Cranes are monogamous, mating for life. Breeding usually aligns with the rainy season, when wetlands provide nesting sites and cover. Clutches typically contain two to four eggs; chicks can walk and swim within a day of hatching but remain dependent on parents for several months. Outside breeding season, they form flocks of up to 150 individuals.

Conservation and significance

Populations have declined sharply, by as much as 80% in recent decades—due to wetland loss, agricultural expansion, poisoning, and illegal trade. Conservation programs led by organizations such as the International Crane Foundation and local initiatives in Uganda and Rwanda focus on habitat protection, community engagement, and ending illegal capture. The Grey Crowned Crane is the national bird of Uganda, appearing on its flag and coat of arms.

Secretary Bird

This is a  very interesting tall bird, long legs, walks on the ground and kills snakes by stamping on them. It looks a little like an eagle standing on long legs. Very elegant bird — many people remember this one.

Kenya became independent in 1963. Tanzania (then Tanganyika, later united with Zanzibar) in 1964 So they were not one country during our visit.

In earlier decades (especially up to the late 1970s), the border between Masai Mara National Reserve and Serengeti National Park was much more freely used and gave a different experience. Wildlife moves freely across this border even today. The landscape feels like one continuous ecosystem. Earlier, cross-border tourism arrangements were more relaxed than they are now.

Later, political and administrative restrictions made crossing the border more formal and limited, so today you cannot simply drive across during a safari. Next morning we went to visit Mara river. Our driver noticed that lots and lots of cars running in one direction. That told our driver that the crossing across the river must be going on. We rushed as close to river as possible. There were more Tham 50 - 60 cars jostling for space. We saw all the animals crossing the river but no lions were seen anywhere.  Zebras and Wildebeasts were crossing in large number. While crossing the river they have to take care of the babies from Crocodiles. Crocodiles sleep along the edge of river and can jump over baby Zebras easily. After watching for some time we left the area. As we were driving we suddenly saw - lo and behold, two aged Lions walking side by, They looked rather old and one was limping.

One rarely sees two lions walking together but this time we again saw two elderly Lions walking next to each other is rare in Tanzania. 

The Mara River presented a scene that felt almost timeless—its muddy brown waters moving slowly past banks where crocodiles lay still, blending into the earth as if carved from it. In the shallows, groups of hippos sat half-submerged, their massive forms barely breaking the surface, while small birds occasionally perched on their backs, creating a quiet, unlikely harmony. Along the river’s edge, animals approached cautiously to drink, ever aware of the hidden danger beneath the water. At times, herds of wildebeest or zebra gathered, hesitating before making their dramatic crossings, filling the air with tension and movement. Nearby, safari vehicles stood parked at a distance, their passengers watching silently, as though witnessing a ritual that has played out unchanged for centuries.Difference between Crocodile and Hippo in the river

During the famous wildebeest migration in the Mara River:

The drama intensifies with each crossing. Crocodiles lie in wait, launching sudden attacks as animals plunge into the water, while hippos, mostly confined to their own territories, grow irritated by the chaos but rarely take part in it. There is a quiet intelligence in how the animals move together—zebras, with their sharp eyesight, often spot danger from afar, while wildebeest rely more on their keen sense of smell and hearing. Together, they form a kind of natural alliance, detecting threats earlier than either could alone. When it comes to crossing, the behaviour is especially fascinating: zebras are often the first to step forward, while wildebeest linger hesitantly at the banks. But once a few animals take the plunge, hesitation gives way to instinct, and suddenly thousands follow in a powerful chain reaction, turning uncertainty into a sweeping, collective movement.

The Great Migration (very important concept)

Between Masai Mara and Serengeti, there is the famous:

Great Wildebeest Migration  -  Every year:

• About 1.5–2 million wildebeest

• Zebras

• Gazelles

• Move in a circular route between Tanzania and Kenya

• Searching for fresh grass after rains

Balloon Safari

Before leaving Masai Mara we took a Balloon Safari. For this we had to gather very early in the morning. On reaching the meeting point we drove to the site from where Balloon was taking off. I was all excited as I had never gone on a Balloon  Safari before. My sister who had done this in Turkey was reluctant. But in the end we came to conclusion that this was much better organised. Our captain was a German lady who came to Kenya as her fiancé moved here. She was very confident and pleasant. 

The sitting arrangement was such that there were four baskets on each pole. Each  basket  accommodated four people. As we sat down in the basket we were lying on our backs and as the Balloon lifted we we were all in comfortable seats. 

During the flying each individual had a chance to visit the pilot’s  cabin to understand the arrangement. When any animal was seen they would lower the balloon so the view is clear. Unfortunately we didn’t see any special gathering of animals. 

When our Balloon safari ended, we had a nice picnic lunch as the lunch was laid out for us under the tree.

There ended our stay in Masai Mara. Next morning we drove back to airport to go to Tanzania. It was a long drive.

TANZANIA 

We took a flight from Kenya Airport to enter Tanzania. That was a short trip.  We landed at the Airport in Tanzania. I must add here that we noticed that along the main road local people were waiting to catch a public bus transport. This was not seen in Kenya. We stayed at very modern hotel in Arusha. Next morning we went to the office of our agent. We were given a car and we took off. In Tanzania all along the way there were booths with beautiful cane furniture.

Our first destination was TARANGERE NATIONAL PARK. This park is well known. We were delayed to reach there and didn’t see any big group of Elephants as expected. 

After this we gave up and straight went to Ngorongoro.  The hotel location was beautiful and people were taking photos of Sun set. I think we did not enter crater on this second trip.

On way back we stopped at Lake Manyara.

It lies within Lake Manyara National Park, part of the famous northern safari circuit that also includes places like the Serengeti and Ngorongoro.